A Lake Como Diary: Slow Days by the Water
After busy days in Athens and Milan, this trip felt like a deep breath.
Lake Como has always been romanticised and for good reason. Nestled against the Alps in northern Italy, the lake shimmers with that soft Italian light, surrounded by historic villas, postcard villages, and cypress-lined gardens. I stayed in Bellagio, a peaceful base right where the lake forks, and it was the perfect place to ease into the quiet. I had booked my accomodation last minute, and this place is the only one left, so I didn’t expect much. But it turned out to be the sweetest surprise — a small cottage at the foot of the hills with breakfast made from ingredients straight from the garden.
My first afternoon set the tone. After checking in, hungry and tired, I grabbed a pizza from a tiny shop two minutes down the road and ate it in the garden, under soft afternoon light. It was my first meal of the day and exactly what my body needed. I spent the rest of that afternoon doing nothing but reading and letting my whole system exhale.
The breakfasts were some of my favourite moments — quiet, slow mornings spent journaling and reading. By the third day, I’d made a few friends and found myself lingering over breakfast and dinner, sharing travel stories and laughter. It reminded me of my younger hostel days — when meeting new people was such a big part of the magic of travel. As I’ve gotten older, I tend to prioritise convenience, and often end up in hotel rooms alone. This trip brought me back to something I’d missed: the ease of new connections.
From the moment I arrived, Bellagio felt different — quieter, softer, slower. Bellagio itself is small, slow, and beautiful — and I mean truly beautiful. It’s quieter than Varenna or Menaggio but just as scenic and well-connected.
Every day, I’d pass Villa Melzi’s botanical gardens on the way to the centre. You can’t help but breathe deeper there, the air fresh with the scent of flowers and the lake shimmering through the trees. Even the path to town felt like a gift.
It reminded me that sometimes the best moments in travel — and in life — are the ones we don’t plan for.
With a slower pace settling in, I started exploring more of the lake. The ferry system makes it so easy to hop between towns, and one of my favourite short trips was across the water to Varenna — just 15 minutes from Bellagio via ferry. And from there I started exploring the beautiful villas around.
Varenna is a charming little town on the eastern shore, with colourful facades, steep narrow streets, and a quieter vibe than some of the other lake spots. Some call it “The Positano of Lake Como” but in my personal opinion it doesn’t come close to Positano in terms of the houses by the coast. But still, it has it’s own charm.
I spent most of my time wandering, camera in hand, and visited Villa Monastero — a lakeside villa with long terraced gardens that felt endless, spilling right into the water. The villa itself is beautiful, but it was the walk through those gardens, with the lake glittering beside me, that I’ll remember most.
There were three photoshoots that happened and each time they block off the section where the shoot is happening. But I thought I would try my luck and as the guard if I could enter and take photos really quickly whilst the next couple is still making their way to the balcony - and he said yes!
That is why I always encourage you to ask :)
Entry fee to the gardens is €10 as of May 2025
You can book a photoshoot here (the exact area in the photo) starting at €1000 + VAT.
Food around Varenna is without a surprise slightly more expensive than Bellagio. I ended up having food at a small-family owned restaurant away from the coast (since it was very busy) and do not regret it. Best tiramisu up to this date! It’s called Il Cavatappi. I’m still working up the courage to not be embarrassed with taking photos of my food so you’ll have to just take my word for it for now.
Villa Carlotta
I took this photo whilst on a boat so unfortunately it isn’t the best but even from a not-so very good photo, you can tell that Villa Carlotta is something else - a masterpiece of art and nature that has been enchanting visitors since the late 1600s. This one is right across the lake from Bellagio and can be reached via boat from Bellagio in 15mins.
The villa itself is grand but it is famous for it’s gardens which I unfortunately did not get to explore to the full extent but hey, that just means I have to go back right? There is more elevation than expected so wear comfy shoes. April to May is apparently ideal since that is when most of the flowers are in bloom.
You can hire Villa Carlotta for weddings, private events and photoshoots but they pricing is depending on the scope of your project and which areas you want to access.
Entry fee is €15 as of May 2025
Originally built in the late 1500s, Villa Balbiano got some real history behind it and remains one of the most popular villas in Lake Como. It has appeared in movies such as House of Gucci, Elettra Lamborghini’s wedding, even John Legend performing for Isha Ambani’s festivities.
These days it’s owned by The Heritage Collection who also manages some well-known properties such as Chateau de Villette (near Paris), Villa Astor in Amalfi Coast and Villa Clara in Rome. If they need an in-house photographer, I volunteer!
I did not get to experience Villa Balbiano in full since there was a wedding preparation underway (you can see the florist if you zoom in on the photo) so I only really got to explore and look at it from the outside. It certainly has the WOW factor but being one of the most expensive places in Lake Como, I got a bit underwhelmed with just the exterior. Villa Carlotta’s exterior was better in my opinion (although for all I know it could be more expensive!!) It is possible I will feel silly once I have explored inside and realised I was so wrong but in the meantime, I encourage you to visit and would love to hear what you think.
From what I know, rental fee for weddings start at €100,000
Villa Balbianello
Villa Balbianello is pure Lake Como romance—perched on a wooded peninsula in Lenno with sweeping lake views and perfectly sculpted terraced gardens. Built in 1787 by Cardinal Durini on the site of an old monastery, it later became the home of explorer-count Guido Monzino, who filled the villa with treasures from his expeditions—think Inuit sculptures, vintage maps, and a hidden-connected series of passages he added for safety. Fun fact, Guido Monzino was also the first Italian to reach Everest!
Today it’s cared for by the Fondo Ambiente Italiano, open to visitors (mostly by guided tour), and attracts film lovers thanks to its cameo roles in Star Wars: Attack of the Clones and Casino Royale. It is in such a great location and offers view of Lake Como from three sides. The gardens are something else—cypress trees pruned into perfect shapes, a dreamy loggia overlooking Isola Comacina, and paths that make you feel like you're walking in a painting. You can get there by a scenic 1 km walk from Lenno or by taxi boat, and it’s worth going early—especially if you want these views with fewer people around
I really like this one - the colours, the vibe. Everything!
Villa La Cassinella feels like your very own secret retreat—accessible only by boat, tucked into a private peninsula on Lake Como. Imagine stepping off into quiet gardens, surrounded by tall cypress trees, with an infinity pool glinting in gold-hued tiles—so over-the-top luxury meets dreamy escape.
If you’re dreaming of total privacy, a cinema room by the pool, and gorgeous sweeping lake views, it’s pretty hard to beat. But it comes with a price tag to match—and don’t expect to just wander in; staying here is very much about exclusivity and that curated luxury energy. I was told you by a guide can hire the villa for a week from €100,000 and it sleeps up to 17 people.
Tips for Travelling Lake Como
If it’s your first time in Lake Como, it can feel a bit like stepping into a postcard — dramatic mountains hugging the lake, pastel villas dotting the hillsides, and tiny ferries zipping people between towns. It’s long been known as a playground for the rich and famous, but don’t let that scare you off. With a bit of planning, it’s very possible to experience the beauty of the lake without blowing your entire budget.
Best Time to Visit:
Late spring (May–early June) and early autumn (September) are ideal. You’ll avoid the heavy summer crowds, prices aren’t as inflated, and the weather is still warm and lovely. Summer can be beautiful, but it gets busy — and hot.
Where to Stay (That Won’t Break the Bank):
Bellagio, where I stayed, is popular but has quieter pockets (especially if you stay just outside the main square). Other good options are Varenna (charming and super accessible by train), Menaggio (great views and more relaxed), or Tremezzo, which is a nice blend of beauty and convenience. Staying slightly outside the main tourist towns and walking or ferrying in is often the sweet spot for value.
Getting Around:
Ferries are the most scenic way to get from town to town — slow ones are cheaper, fast ones save time. Buses can work too, but schedules are spotty (sometimes only one per hour), so always double check. If you're coming from Milan, take the train to Varenna or Como, then ferry onwards. I went with Como since it is a shorter train ride from Milan (only 40mins) and I also wanted to see the town before heading to Bellagio.
Varenna can be a pretty busy little place. My tip is to buy the return ticket from the Varenna port as soon as you arrive! Some people I know ended up waiting 1.5hr in the afternoon to get the ferry out of Varenna.
What to Budget:
Daily costs can vary depending on where you stay and how much you move around, but here’s a general idea:
Meals: €10–15 for takeaway or a pizza, €20–35 for a sit-down meal with wine.
Ferries: Around €4–€15 depending on the route and if it's a slow or fast service.
Accommodation: Budget stays can be around €80–120/night in quieter towns (if booked in advance) while mid-range places go for €150–250. Off season prices will of course be cheaper as well as shared rooms / hostel stays.
Attractions: Villas cost around €10–15 to enter, though gardens-only passes are cheaper. Some places (like Villa La Cassinella) are only viewable from the water unless you're staying there.
General Tips:
Always carry a bit of cash; I never had any problem with just using card but you can never be too safe.
Book villas and ferries in advance if you’re going in peak season.
Comfortable shoes are a must — lots of cobblestone streets and hills.
Aperitivo hours (usually from 5–7pm) are the perfect way to enjoy a lake view with a spritz and snacks without committing to a full dinner but anything that’s within the lake view gets full quickly - make sure to plan in advance.
Don't try to see everything — Como is best enjoyed slowly.
